Muztagh Tower

Muztagh Tower (also: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: ice tower), is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range on the border of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uygur region of China. It stands between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo Glacier. The Mustagh Tower was made famous by a spectacular but somewhat misleading photograph taken by Vittorio during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. In 1941, the photograph was featured in a popular book on mountaineering with the caption “The Last Citadel”. Nearly fifty years after Sella’s photo was taken, in 1956, his photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. Both teams found their routes less steep than Sella’s view had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge first on July 6, five days before the French team (fr; Guido Magnone, fr; Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east. The doctor François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.
1Departure/Return LocationInternational Airport, Islamabad
2Departure TimeMountain Range: Karakoram
3Elevation: 7273mBest Time: July to Mid September
4Duration: 45 DaysZone: Permitted
Services Include:
Lodging at base camp (single supplement)
Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom, showers & solar charge
All internal/domestic transport
All domestic flights
50kgs (110 lbs) personal baggage
All meals during trek and at base camp (B,L,D)
Group emergency equipment/satellite phone service with fixed calling charge
Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two on return (bed & breakfast only)
Staff insurance (guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistant(s) & porters etc)
Experienced cook from Pakistan
Kitchen staff
Porters for all expedition supplies
Solar power at base camp
Electricity generator (backup for high voltage devices)
International airfare
Permit/royalty fee according to number of persons
Personal climbing equipment, clothing & sleeping equipment
Group climbing gear (rope, ice crew, snow bar, EPI gas, cooking pots and others)
Mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance policy - mandatory
Lodging and meals above base camp
Any service above base camp
Communication radio (walkie talkie)
Weather reports
Personal equipment cargo to/from Islamabad
Pakistan visa fee
Tips/gratuities to staff, cook, assistant(s) of US$ 250 per person in total
Meals in Islamabad
Extra hotel nights after the climb
Trip cancellation insurance
All expenses incurred in the event of early wind-up/summit (extra hotel nights, meals at hotels, evacuation)
Charges incurred due to delays beyond the control of Apricot Tours (Force majeure)
Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country.

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