Muztagh Tower (7,276 m) is a sharp tower of rock and ice between the Baltoro and the Sarpo Laggo glaciers. A famous 1909 photograph by Vittorio Sella made it look impossible to climb. In 1956 a British team of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Ian McNaught-Davis and Tom Patey made the first ascent by the north west ridge, and a few days later a French team climbed the south east ridge. It remains a rare and serious objective. We approach up the Baltoro Glacier and the Younghusband Glacier to Base Camp at about 4,800 m.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Baltoro, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 7,276 m | Best Time: Mid June to early August |
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| 4 | Duration: 40 Days | Zone: Restricted |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)About 7 hours by jeep through the Shigar valley and along the Braldu river to Askole, the last village. Meet the porters. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Askole to Jhola (3,200 m)About 6 hours along the Braldu river, crossing the snout of the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Jhola to Paiju (3,450 m)About 6 to 7 hours with the first views of the Paiju peaks and the Trango group. Overnight in tent.
Day 8Rest and acclimatisation day at PaijuRest day for acclimatisation, while the porters prepare for the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 9Paiju to Khoburtse (3,800 m)Onto the Baltoro Glacier, about 6 hours on moraine with views of the Trango Towers and Cathedral peaks. Overnight in tent.
Day 10Khoburtse to Urdukas (4,050 m)About 4 hours to the grassy camp of Urdukas above the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 11Urdukas to Goro II (4,300 m)About 6 to 7 hours up the middle of the Baltoro Glacier with Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV in view. Overnight in tent.
Day 12Goro II to Muztagh Tower Base Camp (about 4,800 m)Leave the Baltoro and walk up the Younghusband Glacier to Base Camp below Muztagh Tower. Overnight in tent.
Day 13 to 32Climbing period on Muztagh Tower (7,276 m)Technical climbing on the north west ridge (first ascent route) or the south east ridge, with steep snow, ice and rock. The team fixes ropes, sets two or three camps and waits for a weather window.
Day 33Trek from Base Camp to Goro IIClean up Base Camp and return to the Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 34Goro II to UrdukasDown the Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas. Overnight in tent.
Day 35Urdukas to PaijuOff the glacier to the green camp at Paiju. Overnight in tent.
Day 36Paiju to AskoleA long day of about 8 to 9 hours along the Braldu river back to Askole. Overnight in tent.
Day 37Jeep from Askole to SkarduAbout 7 hours by jeep back to Skardu. Hot shower and a celebration dinner. Overnight in hotel.
Day 38Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays or bad weather on the road. Overnight in hotel.
Day 39Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and the official debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Overnight in hotel.
Day 40Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Muztagh Tower (7,276 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
