Gasherbrum in local Balti language means “Shining Wall”. There are six peaks in the cluster Gasherbrum: Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters), with a summit pyramid is the second highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located in the upper Baltoro region bordering China and the north face assessable from China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif. Climbers have described it as an impressive but achievable peak, much like Cho Oyu but with a gradual walk up the Baltoro Glacier to its BC that is said to be the best trek in the world.
Gasherbrum II stands in the majestic neighborhood of Karakoram giants like and K2 in a close line-up of world’s highest peaks in the amphitheater of Concordia that has no parallel in the world. In 1889-1929 an international Gasherbrum II Expedition headed by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth studied possible ways to the top of the Gasherbrum II and got to 6250m on the south flank.
On July 8, 1956 the first ascent via the southwest spur was made by an Austrian Expedition headed by F. Moravec. Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart from a bivouac at 7700m via the east spur to the summit on 7th. The snowy of the South West Ridge presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces ridges once you are above the most complex glacial plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It is a steep way up at some sections as we continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp 2 is generally set up around 6,400m. From here we climb a couple of icy pitches and then up the face going steeper before you reach the site of C3 at 7490m. After three easy pitches from there get to a diagonal way across the face from where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge. Climbing from there is straight on a wide-open snowy face with glorious surroundings but a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.
Gasherbrum II has the reputation of being one of the easier 8,000 meter peaks. Its larger namesake, however, is far more technically challenging. Base Camp is at 5,200 meters. Camp 1 is at 5,900 meters after crossing the treacherous Gasherbrum Ice Fall. Camp 2 is at the Gasherbrum La, about 6,400 meters. Camp 3 is at about 7,200 meters above a steep couloir’s, although the location is highly variable since it is cut from the steep snow slopes. From the summit, you will see the entire Karakoram, including Broad Peak, Masherbrum, Mustagh Tower, Chogolisa, and of course K2.
1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
---|
2 | Departure Time | Mountain Range: Karakoram |
---|
3 | Elevation: 8035m | Best Time: Mid-June to End-August |
---|
4 | Duration: 44 Days | Zone: Permitted |
---|
Day 1IslamabadArrival in Islamabad & transfer to the Hotel
Day 2IslamabadPreparation day in Islamabad
Day 3Islamabad to SkarduFly from Islamabad to Skardu
Day 4SkarduRest day in Skardu: Expedition briefing and final preparation
Day 5Skardu to JhulaDrive from Skardu to Jhula
Day 6Jhula to PaiyuTrek from Jhula to Paiyu
Day 7PaiyuRest day in Paiyu
Day 8Paiyu to UrdukasTrek from Paiyu to Urdukas
Day 9Urdukas to Goro IITrek from Urdukas to Goro II
Day 10Goro II to ConcordiaTrek from Goro II to Concordia
Day 11Gasherbum I Base CampTrek to Gasherbum I Base Camp
Day 12TREK TO CONCORDIA (4,600m) 5 HOURS WALKToday we will trek to Concordia, it will take us through what must arguably be the most spectacular mountain scenery anywhere in the world. Our approach to Concordia continues along the heaving swells of the Baltoro Glacier as we pass Mustagh Tower (7,284m). Ahead of us Gasherbrum IV (7,925m) acts like a beacon drawing us on, whilst at some points on today’s walk we can also see Gasherbrum ll (8,035m) which peeks out to the right of Gasherbrum lV. As we make our way up the Baltoro, the aptly named Broad Peak (8,051m) comes into view above the ridge connecting Marble Peak and Crystal Peak on our left. K2 keeps itself hidden until the very moment we reach Concordia when suddenly its full height is revealed in sweeping lines that climb almost 4,000 metres from the valley floor to the summit – a sight that will never be forgotten. Concordia is a wide area where glaciers coming down from K2 meet those from the Gasherbrums and Chogolisa. It is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular places on the planet and here you can stand within 24 kilometres of no fewer than four eight-thousanders and ten of the world’s thirty highest peaks! We make our camp at approximately 4,500 metres on a moraine ridge surrounded on all side by jagged peaks including Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak, Chogolisa, Crystal Peak, Marble Peak, Baltoro Kangri, Broad Peak and K2.
Day 13Acclimatize dayAcclimatize day in Base Camp
Day 14 - 36Gasherbum IIClimbing Period of Gasherbum II
Day 37Cleaning up BasecampPreparation for descending back
Day 38Goro IITrek from basecamp to Goro II
Day 39Goro II to KurburtzeTrek from Goro II to Kurburtze
Day 40Kurburtze to MundungTrek from Kurburtze to Mundung
Day 41Mundung to JhulaTrek from Mundung to Jhula and drive back to Skardu
Day 42SkarduFarewell and debriefing in Skardu
Day 43Skardu to IslamabadFly from Skardu to Islamabad & transfer to Hotel
Day 44departuresTransfer to the International Airport for final departures
PreviousNextServices Include: Arrival & Departure: Pick and drop facility-Airport/Hotel/Airport |
Accommodation: 4 nights stay in Islamabad on Bed & Breakfast Basis-Twin Bedroom |
Welcome Dinner: One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Islamabad with Expedition Staffs. |
Permits & Fees: Expedition Royalty and permit of Pakistan Government. |
Transportation: All required Transportation for all Staffs and Members as per itinerary |
Domestic Flight: Flight for all members for Islamabad to Skardu and Skardu to Islamabad with one Guide, as per Itinerary |
Food & Lodging: 3 meals a day in Trekking & at Basecamp for Members & Staffs |
Porters: Porters per member up to Base camp from Askole & Staff Remunerations and allowances: All staffs' & porters' daily wages/equipment/food/clothing with personal insurances |
Insurance: All Staff's Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance |
Member Luggage: 60 Kg per member as personal baggage |
High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 Climbing Sherpa per member |
A comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff. |
International airfare to and from Islamabad. |
Pakistani Visa Charges |
Lunch & Dinner in Islamabad |
Extra nights’ accommodation in Islamabad. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from the expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary. |
Insurance: Travel and High-Altitude Insurance / Accident / Medical / emergency evacuation |
Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, Personal equipment, and shopping |
Sherpa summit Bonus: G II Minimum USD 1300 |
Tips: Please calculate some tips for Basecamp staffs and porters |
The full set of Member's personal climbing equipment & clothing |
Rescue Evacuation: Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed, and all other expenses of personal nature |
Any other item not listed in the "Price Includes" section. |
Gasherbrum 2 8035m on Google Maps: