Laila Peak (6,096 m) stands at the head of the Hushe valley above the Gondogoro Glacier in the Masherbrum mountains. Its sharp pyramid of snow and ice is one of the most photographed mountains in the Karakoram. The climb follows the steep north west face on snow and ice of about 40 to 45 degrees, with fixed ropes and a long summit day. The first winter ascent was made in February 2013 by Alex Txikon and José Fernández. Laila Peak should not be confused with the other Laila Peak in the Haramosh valley. Base Camp is reached in one long day from Hushe.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Hushe valley, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 6,096 m | Best Time: May to September (best June to August) |
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| 4 | Duration: 22 Days | Zone: Open |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Hushe (3,050 m)About 6 hours by jeep along the Shyok river and through Khaplu into the Hushe valley, the home village of our guides and porters. Overnight in camp.
Day 6Trek from Hushe to Laila Peak Base CampA long day up the Hushe valley past Saicho and along the Gondogoro Glacier to Base Camp below Laila Peak. Overnight in tent.
Day 7 to 17Climbing period on Laila Peak (6,096 m)After acclimatisation and skills training we set Camp 1 and fix ropes on the steep north west face, then make the summit push in good weather. Spare days are kept for weather.
Day 18Trek from Base Camp back to HusheClean up Base Camp and walk down to Hushe in one day. Overnight in camp.
Day 19Jeep from Hushe to SkarduAbout 6 hours by jeep back to Skardu. Hot shower and a celebration dinner. Overnight in hotel.
Day 20Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays or bad weather on the road. Overnight in hotel.
Day 21Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and the official debriefing. Overnight in hotel.
Day 22Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Climbing permit, registration and all government fees |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| Experienced climbing guide for the summit climb |
| High camp tents and group climbing equipment (fixed ropes, snow bars, ice screws) |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| Personal high altitude porter (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Laila Peak (6,096 m) Expedition, Hushe on Google Maps:
