Baintha Brakk (7,285 m), known as the Ogre, rises above the Biafo Glacier in the Panmah Muztagh. The first ascent in 1977 by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington is a legend: Scott broke both legs on the descent and crawled down the mountain with the help of his team. The second ascent came only in 2001 by Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf and Thomas Huber, and the third in 2012. It is one of the most difficult peaks in the world. We provide the Biafo approach, permits, porters and a full Base Camp for expert teams.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
|---|
| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Biafo, Shigar, Gilgit Baltistan |
|---|
| 3 | Elevation: 7,285 m | Best Time: Mid June to end of August |
|---|
| 4 | Duration: 37 Days | Zone: Open |
|---|
Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)About 7 hours by jeep through the Shigar valley to Askole. Meet the porters. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Askole to Namla (about 3,500 m)Walk onto the Biafo Glacier, one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Namla to Mango (about 3,700 m)Continue up the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 8Mango to Baintha (about 4,000 m)Walk to the grassy camp of Baintha beside the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 9Baintha to Ogre Base Camp (about 4,400 m)Walk up the Uzun Brakk Glacier to Base Camp below Baintha Brakk. Overnight in tent.
Day 10 to 31Climbing period on Baintha Brakk, the Ogre (7,285 m)Highly technical climbing on rock, mixed ground and ice. The team chooses the line, fixes ropes where needed and waits for a weather window.
Day 32Trek back to BainthaClean up Base Camp and walk down to Baintha. Overnight in tent.
Day 33Baintha to NamlaDown the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 34Namla to Askole and jeep to SkarduWalk out to Askole and drive to Skardu. Overnight in hotel.
Day 35Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 36Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad and debriefing. Overnight in hotel.
Day 37Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Baintha Brakk, The Ogre (7,285 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
