Chogolisa (7665m) is one of the most beautiful mountains in Karakoram. It really has two summits which are connected by a long, almost horizontal ridge. Even though Chogolisa is not a really difficult mountain, it is very rarely climbed or even attempted.
After the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1955, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger tried to climb Chogolisa, but they had to turn back due to bad weather. On the way down, Hermann Buhl stepped on a cornice and fell to his death. He has never been found.
The first ascent of the North-East summit (7654m) was made by a Japanese expedition in 1958. The South-West Summit (7665m) was first reached by the Austrians G. Ammerer and F. Pressl in 1975.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Departure Time | Mountain Range: Karakoram |
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| 3 | Elevation: 7665m | Best Time: Mid-May to End-August |
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| 4 | Duration: 45 Days | Zone: Permitted |
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Day 1Arrival Islamabadarrival at airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 2Islamabad to Skardu (By Air)Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather), if unable to fly we will depart for Skardu by road with overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day 3Chilas to SkarduIn case of flight has operated we will go for sightseeing tour of Skardu and in case no flight, the day will be used for over land travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day 4Rest day at SkarduSight seen in Skardu final packing for the Expedition.
Day 5Skardu to AskoleAfter breakfast we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Day 6Askole to JhulaTrek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); now a day wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
Day 7Jhula to PaijuWe will resume trek along the BralduRiver to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Day 8Rest Day at PaijuRest & acclimatization day at Paiju.(Tent)
Day 9Paiju to UrdukasBegin trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
Day 10Urdukas to Goro IIA long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
Day 11Goro II to ConcordiaAfter an early breakfast, we will resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters.(Tent)
Day 12Concordia to Chogholisa Base campAfter Breakfast then trek to Chogholisa Base camp (Tent)
Day 13 - 36Climbing ActivitiesWe have 24 days for acclimatization and for scaling the summit. (Tent)
Day 37Chogholisa Base camp to Ali CampAfter lunch we will leave the Chogholisa base camp for Ali Camp. (Tent)
Day 38Ali Camp - Cross Gondogoro Pass - KhuspangA very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock in the morning to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang.(Tent)
Day 39Khuspang to ShaichoAfter a couple of minutes of easy walk we will come onto the glacier. We will pick our way across moving boulders and ice, and finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site we will reach Shaicho. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m.(Tent)
Day 40Shaicho to HusheAfter breakfast we will continue walk along the Hushe River on an easy path. Upon arrival in Hushe we will camp near the fields in Hushe village.(Tent)
Day 41Hushe to SkarduAfter breakfast we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep road to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to hotel and check in.Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day 42Skardu to ChilasEarly morning drive for Chilas. On arrival transfer to hotel and check in.Overnight stay in hotel at Chilas.
Day 43Chilas to IslamabadAfter breakfast we will depart for Islamabad via babusar pass. On arrival transfer to hotel, overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 44Islamabad.We will proceed for de-briefing at Alpine Club in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go for city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 45Islamabad to Flight outTransfer to airport for flight back home.
IncasePlease NoteGilgit Baltistan flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
Services Include:| Lodging at base camp (single supplement) |
| Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom, showers & solar charge |
| All internal/domestic transport |
| All domestic flights |
| 50kgs (110 lbs) personal baggage |
| All meals during trek and at base camp (B,L,D) |
| Group emergency equipment/satellite phone service with fixed calling charge |
| Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two on return (bed & breakfast only) |
| Staff insurance (guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistant(s) & porters etc) |
| Experienced cook from Pakistan |
| Kitchen staff |
| Porters for all expedition supplies |
| Solar power at base camp |
| Electricity generator (backup for high voltage devices) |
| International airfare |
| Permit/royalty fee according to number of persons |
| Personal climbing equipment, clothing & sleeping equipment |
| Group climbing gear (rope, ice crew, snow bar, EPI gas, cooking pots and others) |
| Mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance policy - mandatory |
| Lodging and meals above base camp |
| Any service above base camp |
| Communication radio (walkie talkie) |
| Weather reports |
| Personal equipment cargo to/from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Tips/gratuities to staff, cook, assistant(s) of US$ 250 per person in total |
| Meals in Islamabad |
| Extra hotel nights after the climb |
| Trip cancellation insurance |
| All expenses incurred in the event of early wind-up/summit (extra hotel nights, meals at hotels, evacuation) |
| Charges incurred due to delays beyond the control of Apricot Tours (Force majeure) |
| Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country. |
Chogolisa peak on Google Maps:
