Chogolisa (7,665 m) is a large snow and ice massif at the head of the Baltoro, between Concordia and the Hushe valley. The Duke of the Abruzzi called it Bride Peak in 1909 and reached about 7,500 m on its slopes. In 1957 the great Hermann Buhl died here when a cornice broke. The south west summit (Chogolisa II) was first climbed in 1958 by a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University, and the main summit was first climbed in 1975 by the Austrians Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
|---|
| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Baltoro, Gilgit Baltistan |
|---|
| 3 | Elevation: 7,665 m | Best Time: Mid June to early August |
|---|
| 4 | Duration: 40 Days | Zone: Restricted |
|---|
Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)About 7 hours by jeep through the Shigar valley and along the Braldu river to Askole, the last village. Meet the porters. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Askole to Jhola (3,200 m)About 6 hours along the Braldu river, crossing the snout of the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Jhola to Paiju (3,450 m)About 6 to 7 hours with the first views of the Paiju peaks and the Trango group. Overnight in tent.
Day 8Rest and acclimatisation day at PaijuRest day for acclimatisation, while the porters prepare for the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 9Paiju to Khoburtse (3,800 m)Onto the Baltoro Glacier, about 6 hours on moraine with views of the Trango Towers and Cathedral peaks. Overnight in tent.
Day 10Khoburtse to Urdukas (4,050 m)About 4 hours to the grassy camp of Urdukas above the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 11Urdukas to Goro II (4,300 m)About 6 to 7 hours up the middle of the Baltoro Glacier with Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV in view. Overnight in tent.
Day 12Goro II to Concordia (4,600 m)About 4 to 5 hours to Concordia, where K2, Broad Peak, the Gasherbrums and Chogolisa surround you. Overnight in tent.
Day 13Concordia to Chogolisa Base Camp (about 5,000 m)Walk up the upper Baltoro Glacier towards the Vigne Glacier to Base Camp below Chogolisa. Overnight in tent.
Day 14 to 32Climbing period on Chogolisa (7,665 m)We climb the long snow and ice ridges of Chogolisa with two or three high camps after acclimatisation rotations, watching carefully for cornices on the summit ridge.
Day 33Clean up Base Camp and trek to ConcordiaWe clean up Base Camp, pack all garbage for Skardu and start the walk out down the Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 34Goro II to UrdukasDown the Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas. Overnight in tent.
Day 35Urdukas to PaijuOff the glacier to the green camp at Paiju. Overnight in tent.
Day 36Paiju to AskoleA long day of about 8 to 9 hours along the Braldu river back to Askole. Overnight in tent.
Day 37Jeep from Askole to SkarduAbout 7 hours by jeep back to Skardu. Hot shower and a celebration dinner. Overnight in hotel.
Day 38Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays or bad weather on the road. Overnight in hotel.
Day 39Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and the official debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Overnight in hotel.
Day 40Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Chogolisa (7,665 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
