Spantik (7,027 m), also called the Golden Peak because of its golden marble north west pillar, stands between the Chogolungma Glacier and the Barpu Glacier in Shigar District. It was first climbed in 1955 by the Germans Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt and Jochen Tietze via the south east ridge, which is still the normal route. The route has a vertical gain of about 2,700 m on snow and ice with slopes mostly under 30 to 40 degrees, which makes Spantik a great first 7,000 m peak. We approach by jeep to Arandu and trek three days up the Chogolungma Glacier to Base Camp at about 4,300 m.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Arandu, Shigar, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 7,027 m | Best Time: Mid June to end of August |
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| 4 | Duration: 30 Days | Zone: Open |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Arandu (2,800 m)About 6 hours by jeep through the Shigar valley and the Basha valley to Arandu. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Trek from Arandu to Bolocho (about 3,300 m)Walk onto the Chogolungma Glacier, about 6 hours. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Trek to Chogolungma camp (about 3,800 m)Continue along the glacier, about 6 hours. Overnight in tent.
Day 8Trek to Spantik Base Camp (about 4,300 m)A last walk to Base Camp on the grassy moraine below Spantik. Overnight in tent.
Day 9 to 25Climbing period on Spantik (7,027 m)We climb the south east ridge, the normal route of the 1955 first ascent, with Camp 1 at about 5,100 m, Camp 2 at about 5,600 m and Camp 3 at about 6,300 m, fixed ropes on the steep sections and acclimatisation rotations before the summit day.
Day 26Trek from Base Camp to BolochoClean up Base Camp and walk down the Chogolungma Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 27Trek to Arandu and jeep to SkarduWalk to Arandu and drive back to Skardu. Overnight in hotel.
Day 28Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 29Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad and debriefing. Overnight in hotel.
Day 30Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Spantik (7,027 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
