Broad Peak (8,051 m) rises next to K2 at the head of the Baltoro Glacier in Gilgit Baltistan. Its name comes from the very long summit ridge, more than 1.5 km wide. The first ascent was made on 9 June 1957 by the Austrian team of Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller, without oxygen or porters above Base Camp. The normal route climbs the west spur with Camp 1 at about 5,700 m, Camp 2 at about 6,300 m and Camp 3 at about 7,000 m, then crosses the col at about 7,800 m to the rocky summit ridge. Broad Peak is often chosen as a first 8,000 m peak in the Karakoram or as a preparation for K2.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Baltoro, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 8,051 m | Best Time: Mid June to early August |
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| 4 | Duration: 46 Days | Zone: Restricted |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)About 7 hours by jeep through the Shigar valley and along the Braldu river to Askole, the last village. Meet the porters. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Askole to Jhola (3,200 m)About 6 hours along the Braldu river, crossing the snout of the Biafo Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Jhola to Paiju (3,450 m)About 6 to 7 hours with the first views of the Paiju peaks and the Trango group. Overnight in tent.
Day 8Rest and acclimatisation day at PaijuRest day for acclimatisation, while the porters prepare for the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 9Paiju to Khoburtse (3,800 m)Onto the Baltoro Glacier, about 6 hours on moraine with views of the Trango Towers and Cathedral peaks. Overnight in tent.
Day 10Khoburtse to Urdukas (4,050 m)About 4 hours to the grassy camp of Urdukas above the glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 11Urdukas to Goro II (4,300 m)About 6 to 7 hours up the middle of the Baltoro Glacier with Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV in view. Overnight in tent.
Day 12Goro II to Concordia (4,600 m)About 4 to 5 hours to Concordia, where K2, Broad Peak, the Gasherbrums and Chogolisa surround you. Overnight in tent.
Day 13Concordia to Broad Peak Base Camp (4,850 m)A short walk of about 3 hours up the Godwin Austen Glacier to Broad Peak Base Camp. Set up camp and the puja ceremony. Overnight in tent.
Day 14 to 38Climbing period on Broad Peak (8,051 m)We climb the normal route on the west spur, first climbed in 1957. Camp 1 at about 5,700 m, Camp 2 at about 6,300 m and Camp 3 at about 7,000 m, with fixed ropes on the steep sections. After acclimatisation rotations we wait for a weather window for the long summit day over the col and the summit ridge.
Day 39Clean up Base Camp and trek to Goro IIWe clean up Base Camp, pack all garbage for Skardu and start the walk out down the Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 40Goro II to UrdukasDown the Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas. Overnight in tent.
Day 41Urdukas to PaijuOff the glacier to the green camp at Paiju. Overnight in tent.
Day 42Paiju to AskoleA long day of about 8 to 9 hours along the Braldu river back to Askole. Overnight in tent.
Day 43Jeep from Askole to SkarduAbout 7 hours by jeep back to Skardu. Hot shower and a celebration dinner. Overnight in hotel.
Day 44Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays or bad weather on the road. Overnight in hotel.
Day 45Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and the official debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Overnight in hotel.
Day 46Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Broad Peak (8,051 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
