Yermanendu Kangri (also written Yernamandu Kangri, about 7,163 m) stands on the south east side of Masherbrum, above the Masherbrum Glacier and the Hushe valley. For a long time it was listed among the highest unclimbed peaks in the world. On 15 July 2023 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent in alpine style, and the expedition in Pakistan was organised by Discover Karakoram from Hushe. From Base Camp at 4,300 m on the Masherbrum Glacier they climbed the Serac Glacier with bivouacs at about 5,400 m and 6,250 m, then the 600 m south west face on ice of 60 to 70 degrees to the summit, reached at 11:15. As far as we know, the peak has not had a second ascent. Read the full story on our blog: Yernamandu Kangri, the 2023 first ascent we organised from Hushe.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Hushe valley, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: about 7,160 m | Best Time: Mid June to early August |
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| 4 | Duration: 33 Days | Zone: Open |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu, about one hour. If the flight is cancelled because of weather, we drive the Karakoram Highway instead (one or two days). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads for the porters, buy fresh supplies and visit Skardu bazaar. This day is also a spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Hushe (3,050 m)About 6 hours by jeep along the Shyok river and through Khaplu into the Hushe valley, the home village of our guides and porters. Overnight in camp.
Day 6Trek from Hushe to Parbisan (about 3,600 m)About 5 to 6 hours up the Hushe valley towards the Masherbrum Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Trek to Masherbrum Base Camp (about 4,300 m)About 4 to 5 hours to Base Camp on the Masherbrum Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 8 to 27Climbing period on Yermanendu Kangri (about 7,160 m)We follow the line of the 2023 first ascent: up the Masherbrum Glacier and the classic Masherbrum route to the ridge, then the upper west face on steep alpine ice (up to about 70 degrees). Acclimatisation rotations come first, then a fast alpine style push in good weather.
Day 28Trek from Base Camp to ParbisanClean up Base Camp and walk down. Overnight in tent.
Day 29Trek back to HusheClean up Base Camp, pack all garbage for Skardu and walk down to Hushe. Overnight in camp.
Day 30Jeep from Hushe to SkarduAbout 6 hours by jeep back to Skardu. Hot shower and a celebration dinner. Overnight in hotel.
Day 31Spare day in SkarduKept free for flight delays or bad weather on the road. Overnight in hotel.
Day 32Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and the official debriefing. Overnight in hotel.
Day 33Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Yermanendu Kangri (about 7,160 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
