Masherbrum II, also called Mandu Kangri and first named Masherbrum Far West, stands about 2.3 km south east of Masherbrum (7,821 m) in the Masherbrum mountains above the Hushe valley. Its height is debated: the list of Eberhard Jurgalski gives 7,127 m, the 1988 Italian team claimed 7,200 m, and a 1994 team thought it may be closer to 6,600 m. The first ascent was made on 8 September 1988 by a ten member Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti. Rozi Ali, the founder of Discover Karakoram, worked with that expedition as a local guide from Hushe. A British commercial expedition reached the summit again in September 1991, with Base Camp at the junction of the Bolux and Masherbrum glaciers, Camp 1 at about 5,200 m and Camp 2 at about 6,400 m. The peak has had very few ascents since. Read the full story on our blog: Masherbrum II, the 1988 first ascent and the story of our founder Rozi Ali.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Masherbrum mountains, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 7,127 m | Best Time: Mid June to early August |
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| 4 | Duration: 33 Days | Zone: Open |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Airport pick up and transfer to hotel. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial briefing, final paperwork and gear check. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Skardu (2,230 m)Morning flight past Nanga Parbat (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled). Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Skardu: final preparationsRepack loads and buy fresh supplies. Spare day for flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Jeep from Skardu to Hushe (3,050 m)About 6 hours through Khaplu into the Hushe valley. Overnight in camp.
Day 6Trek from Hushe to Parbisan (about 3,600 m)Up the Hushe valley towards the Masherbrum Glacier. Overnight in tent.
Day 7Trek to Base Camp (about 4,300 m)To Base Camp near the junction of the Bolux and Masherbrum glaciers. Overnight in tent.
Day 8 to 27Climbing period on Masherbrum II (Mandu Kangri)We follow the line of the 1988 and 1991 ascents: up the glacier and a couloir to a col for Camp 1 (about 5,200 m), across the snow basin and along a corniced ridge to Camp 2 (about 6,400 m) below the summit pyramid, then the final steep snow and ice to the summit. Acclimatisation rotations first, then the summit push in good weather.
Day 28Trek from Base Camp to ParbisanClean up Base Camp and walk down. Overnight in tent.
Day 29Trek back to HusheWalk down to Hushe. Overnight in camp.
Day 30Jeep from Hushe to SkarduAbout 6 hours back to Skardu. Overnight in hotel.
Day 31Spare day in SkarduFor flight delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 32Fly to Islamabad and debriefingOvernight in hotel.
Day 33Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotel in Skardu on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Masherbrum II (Mandu Kangri, 7,127 m) Expedition on Google Maps:
