Muchu Chhish (7,453 m) stands on the Batura Muztagh, the great wall above the Hunza valley in Gilgit Baltistan. For many years it was known as the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. On 5 July 2024 the Czech climbers Zdeněk Hák, Radoslav Groh and Jaroslav Bánský reached the summit at 10:20 am. They followed the 1983 Polish German line up the south spur of Batura V to the main Batura ridge, then traversed east along the ridge past a rock tower to the summit, with camps at about 5,350 m, 6,300 m, 6,750 m and 7,250 m and Base Camp at about 4,000 m on the Muchuhar Glacier. The climb was named the top expedition of 2024 by Explorersweb and listed by the Piolets d Or. A second ascent is now a great goal for strong teams.
| 1 | Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
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| 2 | Mountain Range: Karakoram | Region: Batura, Hunza, Gilgit Baltistan |
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| 3 | Elevation: 7,453 m | Best Time: Mid June to end of July |
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| 4 | Duration: 35 Days | Zone: Open |
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Day 1Arrive in Islamabad (540 m)Our team meets you at Islamabad airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2Expedition briefing in IslamabadOfficial expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the Alpine Club of Pakistan, final paperwork, gear check and last shopping. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3Fly to Gilgit and drive to Hunza (about 2,500 m)Flight to Gilgit (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled), then about 3 hours by road up the Hunza valley. Overnight in hotel.
Day 4Hunza: final preparationsRepack loads and meet porters. Overnight in hotel.
Day 5Trek towards the Muchuhar GlacierLeave the Karakoram Highway and walk into the side valley towards Muchu Chhish. Overnight in tent.
Day 6Trek to Muchu Chhish Base Camp (about 4,000 m)Reach Base Camp on the Muchuhar Glacier below the Batura wall. Overnight in tent.
Day 7 to 30Climbing period on Muchu Chhish (7,453 m)We follow the line of the 2024 first ascent: the south spur of Batura V to the main Batura ridge, then east along the ridge to the summit tower, with camps at about 5,350 m, 6,300 m, 6,750 m and 7,250 m. Acclimatisation rotations first, then a summit push in a long weather window.
Day 31Trek out to the road headClean up Base Camp and walk down to the Karakoram Highway. Overnight in hotel in Hunza.
Day 32Drive to GilgitDrive back to Gilgit. Overnight in hotel.
Day 33Fly to Islamabad and debriefingFlight to Islamabad (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and debriefing. Overnight in hotel.
Day 34Spare day in IslamabadKept free for road delays. Overnight in hotel.
Day 35Fly homeTransfer to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
Services Include:| Expedition permit, royalty and all government fees |
| Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing in Islamabad |
| Liaison officer fees, kit allowance and insurance where required |
| Airport pick up and drop off in Islamabad |
| Hotel in Islamabad on bed and breakfast as per itinerary |
| Hotels in Gilgit and Hunza on full board as per itinerary |
| Domestic flights Islamabad to Gilgit and back (road travel by private vehicle if flights are cancelled) |
| All jeep transport to and from the trek start |
| Porters to carry expedition loads to Base Camp and back |
| Experienced guide on the approach trek |
| Base Camp cook and kitchen team |
| All meals during the trek and at Base Camp |
| Base Camp tents: sleeping, dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents with tables, chairs and mattresses |
| Gas and fuel for cooking at Base Camp |
| Wages, food, equipment and insurance for all staff and porters |
| First aid kit at Base Camp |
| Garbage management and transport of waste back to Skardu |
| International flights to and from Islamabad |
| Pakistan visa fee |
| Travel, medical and helicopter rescue insurance (mandatory) |
| Lunch and dinner in Islamabad |
| Personal climbing gear and clothing |
| High altitude porters and high altitude food above Base Camp (available on request) |
| Supplementary oxygen (available on request) |
| Extra hotel nights or meals caused by early return, flight delays or road closures |
| Excess baggage on domestic flights |
| Drinks, laundry, phone calls and other personal expenses |
| Summit bonus for climbing staff |
| Tips for guides, cooks and porters |
| Helicopter rescue costs |
| Anything not listed under included services |
Muchu Chhish (7,453 m): Second Ascent Expedition on Google Maps:
