On 15 July 2023, at 11:15 in the morning, two climbers stood on a summit no human had ever reached:Yernamandu Kangri, about 7,163 m, on the shoulder of Masherbrum above our home valley of Hushe. The climbers were Simon Messner from South Tyrol and Martin Sieberer from Austria. The expedition on the ground in Pakistan was organised byDiscover Karakoram, with Rozi Ali of Hushe in the Base Camp team. This is the story of one of the most important first ascents in the Karakoram in recent years, told from Hushe.
Yernamandu Kangri at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Height | About 7,163 m (measured about 7,180 m to 7,185 m on the summit) |
| Other spelling | Yermanendu Kangri |
| Location | South east of Masherbrum (7,821 m), above the Masherbrum Glacier, Hushe valley |
| First ascent | 15 July 2023, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer |
| Style | Alpine style, three days up, almost no rope |
| Route | Serac Glacier and the 600 m south west face, ice 60 to 70 degrees |
| Base Camp | 4,300 m on the Masherbrum Glacier |
| Organised by | Discover Karakoram, Hushe |
One of the highest unclimbed peaks on Earth
For decades, Yernamandu Kangri stood quietly next to Masherbrum, the K1 of the old survey. It was attempted before, including by a German team in 1981, but nobody reached the top. Before 2023 it was listed among the highest unclimbed summits in the world. The name used by Simon Messner is how the people of Hushe say it; maps often write Yermanendu.
From Hushe to Base Camp
After months of waiting, the climbers received their Pakistan visas only three weeks before departure. From Skardu they drove to Hushe, where our team prepared porters, food and Base Camp equipment, and walked up the Masherbrum Glacier. Simon Messner later wrote that the approach went smoothly and that the mountain can be reached easily from Hushe. On 1 July 2023 Base Camp stood at 4,300 m, with the two climbers alone in the valley and our Base Camp crew, including Rozi Ali, a cook and porter Simon Messner knows well.
A hard start: sun, snow and avalanches
The 2023 season was unstable. On the first try up the Serac Glacier, strong sun set off avalanches and rockfall, and the climbers turned back at about 5,300 m with sunburn and headaches. Then snow and rain kept them in Base Camp for days. A second try to about 5,300 m ended in fresh snowfall. That was their only acclimatisation before the summit push.
Three days to the summit
- 13 July: They left with minimal gear and no proper rope, reaching about 5,400 m and camping on a platform cut into a crevasse edge.
- 14 July: Wading through deep, soft snow they climbed to about 6,250 m and camped below a large crevasse, kept awake by dripping water.
- 15 July: Away at 4:15 am with nearly empty packs, they crossed ridges and crevasses to the 600 m south west face, climbed it unroped on ice of 60 to 70 degrees, traversed granite slabs to a col and reached the summit at 11:15.
Their only rope was about 10 m of cord. They stayed on top for a few minutes, down climbed the face, placing one piton, and spent a short night at their high camp before returning to Base Camp on 16 July. In Hushe and at our office, the news came first as a short satellite message, which Discover Karakoram passed on to Explorersweb. Simon Messner said later: “I’d always dreamt of standing at 7,000m!”
Why this climb matters to us
Yernamandu Kangri is a mountain of our valley. People from Hushe have worked on Masherbrum expeditions for generations, Rozi Ali worked on the first ascent of Masherbrum II in 1988, and in 2023 our team organised the first ascent of its neighbour, Yernamandu Kangri. It shows what a small local team from Hushe can do for climbers who want to explore the unclimbed Karakoram.
Frequently asked questions
Who made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri?
Simon Messner of South Tyrol and Martin Sieberer of Austria, on 15 July 2023, in alpine style.
Who organised the expedition in Pakistan?
Discover Karakoram organised the logistics from Hushe to Base Camp, with Rozi Ali of Hushe in the Base Camp team.
How high is Yernamandu Kangri?
About 7,163 m on most lists. The team measured about 7,180 m to 7,185 m on the summit with their GPS device.
Where is Yernamandu Kangri?
On the south east side of Masherbrum (7,821 m) in the Masherbrum mountains, above the Masherbrum Glacier and the Hushe valley in Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. It is also spelled Yermanendu Kangri.
Which route did they climb?
From Base Camp at 4,300 m on the Masherbrum Glacier they climbed the Serac Glacier, bivouacked at about 5,400 m and 6,250 m, and climbed the 600 m south west face on ice of 60 to 70 degrees to the summit.
Was it really unclimbed?
Yes. Before 2023 it was listed among the highest unclimbed summits in the world; Eberhard Jurgalski is reported to have ranked it about tenth.
Can I climb Yernamandu Kangri with Discover Karakoram?
Yes. We organise expeditions to Yernamandu Kangri, Masherbrum and Masherbrum II from Hushe. As far as we know, the second ascent is still waiting.
