If you are dreaming of your first 8,000 m summit, there is a good chance your list starts withGasherbrum II (8,035 m). The thirteenth highest mountain in the world is the most climbed 8,000 m peak in the Karakoram and is widely seen as one of the best first 8,000ers anywhere. It has a logical normal route on the south west ridge, a Base Camp in one of the most spectacular places on Earth, and an approach along the Baltoro Glacier past K2 and Concordia. Our 46 dayGasherbrum II expedition provides a full service Base Camp, fixed ropes and experienced high altitude staff from Baltistan.
New to the region? Read ourK2 and the Karakoram Ranges, with an interactive map, the 20 highest peaks and the best time to visit.
This guide covers the mountain, its history, the normal route and camps, the expedition plan, why it is a good first 8,000 m peak, the experience needed, oxygen and porter options, gear, safety and FAQ.
Gasherbrum II at a glance
| Summit | 8,035 m, thirteenth highest on Earth |
| Location | Head of the Baltoro, Gasherbrum group, Central Karakoram |
| Duration | 46 days, Islamabad to Islamabad |
| Route | Normal route, south west ridge |
| Camps | Base Camp and four high camps |
| Base Camp | About 5,000 m, shared with Gasherbrum I |
| First ascent | 7 July 1956, Austrian expedition |
| Best season | Mid June to early August |
Where is Gasherbrum II?
Gasherbrum II stands in the Gasherbrum group at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, on the border between Pakistan and China, with Gasherbrum I, III, IV and V around it. The approach follows the classic Baltoro trek: Askole, Jhola, Paiju, Urdukas, Goro II, Concordia, then east along the upper Baltoro to the Abruzzi Glacier and the Gasherbrum Base Camp.
History
Gasherbrum II was first climbed on7 July 1956 by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart reached the summit by the south west ridge, the line still used as the normal route today. Since then Gasherbrum II has become the most frequently climbed 8,000 m peak in Pakistan.
Why is Gasherbrum II a good first 8,000 m peak?
- Logical route. The south west ridge is steady and not very technical, with good camp sites.
- Excellent acclimatisation. The eight day Baltoro walk prepares your body before you reach Base Camp.
- Good success rate. Among the 8,000 m peaks of Pakistan, Gasherbrum II usually has one of the better success rates.
- Strong support. Fixed ropes, experienced high altitude staff and other teams on the mountain in season.
- Stepping stone. Many climbers go on to Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat or K2 after Gasherbrum II.
The normal route and camps
Heights are approximate.
- Base Camp, about 5,000 m. On the Abruzzi Glacier, shared with Gasherbrum I.
- Camp 1, about 5,900 m. Above theGasherbrum icefall, crossed early in the morning while it is frozen.
- Camp 2, about 6,400 m. At the foot of the south west ridge in the Gasherbrum cirque.
- Camp 3, about 7,000 m. Up the ridge on snow, ice and some rock, with fixed rope.
- Camp 4, about 7,400 m. On a snow shoulder below the summit pyramid.
- Summit, 8,035 m. A traverse and final steep snow slopes lead to a small summit.
Expedition itinerary
Days 1 to 4: Islamabad and Skardu
Arrival, expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flight to Skardu (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled) and final preparations.
Day 5: Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)
Days 6 to 13: The Baltoro approach to Gasherbrum Base Camp
Askole, Jhola, Paiju with a rest day, Khoburtse, Urdukas, Goro II, Concordia (with K2 in view) and on to Gasherbrum Base Camp.
Climbing period, about four weeks
- Rest, a skills session and gear checks at Base Camp
- First rotation: through the icefall to Camp 1 and back
- Second rotation: sleep at Camp 2
- Third rotation: up the ridge to Camp 3 and back
- Rest at Base Camp and wait for a summit window
- Summit push: Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4, summit and descent
- Spare days for weather
Walk out and return
Down the Baltoro to Askole, jeep to Skardu, flight to Islamabad, debriefing and home. Strong teams may exit over the Gondogoro La to Hushe if conditions allow.
How difficult is Gasherbrum II?
Gasherbrum II is one of theless technical 8,000 m peaks, but it is still a big undertaking. Expect:
- The Gasherbrum icefall with crevasses and seracs
- Steep snow and ice on the ridge, on fixed rope
- Avalanche risk on some slopes after heavy snow
- A long, cold summit day above 7,500 m
- The effects of extreme altitude
Experience you need
- At least one 6,000 m peak and ideally a 7,000 m peak, such asSpantik
- Good crampon and ice axe skills
- Experience with fixed ropes, ascenders and abseiling
- Excellent fitness and endurance
- Experience of camping and living at altitude for weeks
Oxygen and high altitude porters
Many climbers summit Gasherbrum II without supplementary oxygen. Others choose to use it on summit day. Personal high altitude porters can carry your gear between camps and climb with you. Both are available on request.
Combining with Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I shares the same Base Camp and lower route. Strong climbers sometimes attempt both peaks in one expedition. Read ourGasherbrum I guide and ask us about the combined plan.
Safety
We cross the icefall early in the day, coordinate rope fixing with other teams, watch the weather closely and set turnaround times. We keep a satellite phone, first aid kit and medical oxygen at Base Camp. Your insurance must cover mountaineering on 8,000 m peaks and helicopter rescue.
Best season
Mid June to early August. July usually brings the best summit windows.
Gear list
- 8,000 m boots and crampons
- Ice axe, harness, helmet, ascender, belay and abseil devices
- 8,000 m down suit and expedition mittens
- Sleeping bag rated to about -35 °C
- Goggles and glacier glasses
- Oxygen mask and regulator (if using oxygen)
What is included
- Airport transfers and hotels in Islamabad and Skardu
- Flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel if cancelled)
- Jeep transport Skardu to Askole and back
- Royalty, permits, national park fees and liaison officer
- Porters for the approach and return
- Full service Base Camp with cook and kitchen staff
- All meals on the trek and at Base Camp
- Base Camp tents, dining tent, kitchen tent, shower and toilet tents
- Satellite phone, first aid kit and medical oxygen at Base Camp
- High altitude porters and oxygen (on request)
Gasherbrum II FAQ
How high is Gasherbrum II?
Gasherbrum II is 8,035 m, the thirteenth highest mountain on Earth.
Is Gasherbrum II a good first 8,000 m peak?
Yes. It has a logical, less technical normal route, excellent acclimatisation on the Baltoro approach and strong support in season.
When was Gasherbrum II first climbed?
On 7 July 1956, by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart of an Austrian expedition.
Which route do you climb?
The normal route on the south west ridge, with four high camps.
How difficult is Gasherbrum II?
It is one of the less technical 8,000 m peaks, but you must cross the Gasherbrum icefall and climb steep snow on fixed rope at extreme altitude.
How long is the expedition?
46 days from Islamabad to Islamabad.
Do I need supplementary oxygen?
It is optional. Many climbers summit without it, but we can provide oxygen on request.
Can I combine Gasherbrum II with Gasherbrum I?
Yes. They share the same Base Camp, and strong climbers can attempt both with two permits and extra time.
Will I see K2?
Yes. The approach passes Concordia with a direct view of K2.
When is the best time to climb Gasherbrum II?
Mid June to early August, with July usually the best month.
Do I need a permit?
Yes. Discover Karakoram arranges the royalty, permits, national park fees and liaison officer. We need a copy of your passport and visa in advance.
Do I need insurance?
Yes. You need insurance that covers mountaineering on 8,000 m peaks, medical treatment and helicopter rescue.
How much does the Gasherbrum II expedition cost?
Prices are on request and depend on team size, oxygen and porter support. Contact us on WhatsApp +92 355 5733499 or by email at discoverkarakoram@gmail.com for a quote.
Climb Gasherbrum II with Discover Karakoram
Discover Karakoram has run expeditions from 6,000 m peaks to 8,000 m giants on the Baltoro. Our founderRozi Ali has led expeditions in the Karakoram for about 40 years, and we are a government licensed operator (DTS No. 2369). Bookings are open for 2027, prices on request. See theGasherbrum II expedition page orcontact us for a quote.
