There is Everest, the highest. And there isK2 (8,611 m), the hardest. The second highest mountain on Earth rises as an almost perfect pyramid at the head of the Godwin Austen Glacier in the Karakoram, and climbers have called it theSavage Mountain since the 1950s. It is steeper, colder, more remote and more technical than Everest’s normal routes, and a summit of K2 is one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering. Our 55 dayK2 expedition follows the Baltoro Glacier to a full service Base Camp and climbs the classicAbruzzi Spur with experienced high altitude staff, fixed ropes and strong logistics from a Baltistan based team.
New to the region? Read ourK2 and the Karakoram Ranges, with an interactive map, the 20 highest peaks and the best time to visit.
This guide explains the mountain, its history, the Abruzzi route and camps, the full expedition plan, the experience you need, oxygen and high altitude porter options, gear, safety and the most common questions we are asked.
K2 at a glance
| Summit | 8,611 m, second highest on Earth |
| Location | Pakistan and China border, head of the Godwin Austen Glacier |
| Duration | 55 days, Islamabad to Islamabad |
| Route | Abruzzi Spur (south east ridge), the normal route |
| Camps | Base Camp, Advanced Base Camp and four high camps |
| Base Camp | About 5,000 m on the Godwin Austen Glacier |
| First ascent | 31 July 1954, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli |
| Best season | Mid June to mid August |
Where is K2?
K2 stands on the border between Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan and Xinjiang in China, in the Central Karakoram. From the Pakistan side, it is reached by the Baltoro Glacier. You drive from Skardu to Askole, walk about eight days up the Braldu valley and the Baltoro to Concordia, then continue up the Godwin Austen Glacier to K2 Base Camp. The approach passes some of the greatest mountain scenery on Earth: the Trango Towers, Masherbrum, the Gasherbrums and Broad Peak.
Why is it called K2?
In 1856 the British surveyor Thomas Montgomerie numbered the peaks of the Karakoram he could see from Kashmir. K2 was the second. Most of the other peaks later received local names, but K2 is so remote that no local name was widely used, so the survey name stuck. Today it is known around the world simply as K2.
A short history of K2
- 1909: The Duke of the Abruzzi explores the Baltoro and attempts the south east ridge, now called the Abruzzi Spur.
- 1938 and 1939: American expeditions reach high on the mountain. In 1939 Fritz Wiessner gets within a few hundred metres of the summit.
- 1953: An American expedition is trapped by a storm. During the famous “Belay”, Pete Schoening holds five falling climbers on one ice axe.
- 31 July 1954: An Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio makes the first ascent. Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli reach the summit. Walter Bonatti and the Hunza porter Amir Mahdi survive a night in the open at about 8,100 m while carrying oxygen for them.
- 1977: A Japanese expedition makes the second ascent, and Ashraf Aman becomes the first Pakistani to stand on top of K2.
- 2021: A team of Nepali climbers makes the first winter ascent on 16 January.
K2 has seen far fewer ascents than Everest, and its fatality rate has historically been much higher.
Why climb K2?
- The ultimate 8,000 m peak. For many climbers, K2 is the summit that matters most.
- A classic route. The Abruzzi Spur is one of the great historic lines in mountaineering.
- The Baltoro approach. Eight days of the finest trekking in the world before you even start climbing.
- Experienced support. Our high altitude staff from Baltistan have worked on K2 and the other 8,000 m peaks for many years.
The Abruzzi Spur: route and camps
Heights are approximate and vary by season.
- Base Camp, about 5,000 m. On the moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier, with dining, kitchen, shower and toilet tents.
- Advanced Base Camp, about 5,300 m. At the foot of the spur, after crossing the glacier.
- Camp 1, about 6,050 m. Steep snow and rock on fixed rope.
- Camp 2, about 6,700 m. AboveHouse’s Chimney, a famous rock crack climbed on fixed rope.
- Camp 3, about 7,200 m. Above theBlack Pyramid, a steep and complex band of dark rock, the most technical section of the route.
- Camp 4, about 7,600 m to 7,900 m. On the Shoulder, a broad snow slope below the summit pyramid.
- Summit, 8,611 m. From Camp 4 climbers pass through theBottleneck, a steep couloir below a huge serac, then make the exposed traverse left under the serac before the final snow slopes to the top.
Expedition itinerary
Days 1 to 4: Islamabad and Skardu
Arrival, expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flight to Skardu (or the Karakoram Highway if cancelled), and final preparations.
Day 5: Jeep from Skardu to Askole (3,000 m)
Days 6 to 13: The Baltoro approach
Askole to Jhola, Jhola to Paiju, a rest day at Paiju, Khoburtse, Urdukas, Goro II, Concordia (4,600 m) and finally K2 Base Camp (about 5,000 m). Read ourK2 Base Camp trek itinerary for a full day by day description of this route.
Climbing period, about five weeks
- Rest, gear checks and a skills refresher at Base Camp
- First rotation: Advanced Base Camp and Camp 1, back to Base Camp
- Second rotation: sleep at Camp 2 and touch Camp 3
- Third rotation: sleep at Camp 3 if conditions allow
- Rest at Base Camp and wait for a summit window
- Summit push: Camp 1 or 2, Camp 3, Camp 4, summit, and descent
- Spare days for weather, which on K2 can be long
Walk out and return
Down the Godwin Austen and Baltoro glaciers to Askole, or out over the Gondogoro La to Hushe if the team is strong and conditions allow, then to Skardu, Islamabad and home.
How difficult is K2?
K2 is thehardest of the 8,000 m peaks on its normal routes. Expect:
- Steep, sustained climbing on rock, snow and ice from Camp 1 upwards
- House’s Chimney and the Black Pyramid, both technical sections on fixed rope
- The Bottleneck and traverse below a large serac at over 8,200 m
- Extreme cold and strong wind
- Long periods of bad weather and short summit windows
- Very difficult rescue above Base Camp
Experience you need
- At least one 8,000 m peak, ideally a technical one, and several 7,000 m peaks
- Strong crampon and ice axe skills on steep ground
- Extensive experience with fixed ropes, ascenders and abseiling
- Experience with supplementary oxygen if you plan to use it
- Excellent fitness, mental strength and patience
Many K2 climbers prepare withGasherbrum II,Broad Peak orSpantik.
Oxygen and high altitude porters
Most climbers on K2 today use supplementary oxygen above Camp 3 or Camp 4, and many climb with a personal high altitude porter (HAP). A HAP carries loads between camps, helps set up high camps and climbs with you on summit day. We can arrange oxygen bottles, masks and regulators and experienced high altitude staff for your team. Tell us your plans and experience and we will design the support level with you.
Safety
Safety on K2 depends on patience, good weather information and conservative decisions. Our team works with professional weather forecasts, coordinates rope fixing with other expeditions, and sets clear turnaround times on summit day. We keep a satellite phone, first aid kit and medical oxygen at Base Camp and work with the helicopter rescue service through your insurance. Your insurance must cover mountaineering on 8,000 m peaks and helicopter rescue.
Best season
Mid June to mid August. Most summits are made in the second half of July, when the fixed ropes are complete and the weather is usually most stable.
Gear list
- 8,000 m boots and crampons
- Ice axe and technical tool
- Harness, helmet, ascender, belay and abseil devices
- 8,000 m down suit and expedition mittens
- Sleeping bags for Base Camp and high camps, rated to about -35 °C
- Goggles and glacier glasses
- Oxygen mask and regulator (if using oxygen)
- Thermos flask, high altitude food and personal medicines
What is included
- Airport transfers and hotels in Islamabad and Skardu
- Flights Islamabad to Skardu and back (road travel if cancelled)
- Jeep transport Skardu to Askole and back
- K2 royalty, permits, national park fees and liaison officer
- Porters for the approach and return
- Full service Base Camp with cook and kitchen staff
- All meals on the trek and at Base Camp
- Base Camp tents, dining tent, kitchen tent, shower and toilet tents
- Satellite phone, first aid kit and medical oxygen at Base Camp
- High altitude porters, oxygen and high camp services (on request)
Not climbing? Trek to K2 Base Camp
Partners, friends and families can trek with the expedition to K2 Base Camp. OurK2 Base Camp and Gondogoro La trek is our most popular trip. Read thecomplete guide and our41 question FAQ.
K2 expedition FAQ
How high is K2?
K2 is 8,611 m, the second highest mountain on Earth.
Why is K2 called the Savage Mountain?
The name dates from the 1950s. K2 is steep, cold, remote and stormy, and it has a much higher fatality rate than Everest.
When was K2 first climbed?
On 31 July 1954, by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli of an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio.
Who was the first Pakistani to climb K2?
Ashraf Aman, in 1977, with a Japanese expedition.
Which route do you climb?
The Abruzzi Spur, the normal route on the south east ridge, with four high camps.
How long is the K2 expedition?
55 days from Islamabad to Islamabad, including the eight day approach and about five weeks of climbing.
Is K2 harder than Everest?
Yes. K2 is steeper and more technical on its normal route, with harder weather and more difficult rescue.
What are the hardest parts of the route?
House’s Chimney, the Black Pyramid and the Bottleneck with the traverse below the serac above 8,200 m.
Do I need supplementary oxygen?
Most climbers use oxygen above Camp 3 or Camp 4. We can supply oxygen bottles, masks and regulators on request.
What experience do I need for K2?
At least one 8,000 m peak and several 7,000 m peaks, strong fixed rope and technical skills and excellent fitness.
When is the best time to climb K2?
Mid June to mid August. Most summits are made in the second half of July.
Do I need a permit?
Yes. Discover Karakoram arranges the K2 royalty, permits, national park fees and liaison officer. We need a copy of your passport and visa in advance.
Can my family trek to K2 Base Camp?
Yes. Family and friends can join the approach and visit K2 Base Camp on our K2 Base Camp trek.
How much does the K2 expedition cost?
Prices are on request and depend on team size, oxygen and high altitude porter support. Contact us on WhatsApp +92 355 5733499 or by email at discoverkarakoram@gmail.com for a quote.
Climb K2 with Discover Karakoram
Discover Karakoram has run expeditions from 6,000 m peaks to 8,000 m giants, with high altitude staff from Baltistan who know the Baltoro well. Our founderRozi Ali has led expeditions in the Karakoram for about 40 years, and we are a government licensed operator (DTS No. 2369). Bookings are open for 2027, prices on request. See theK2 expedition page orcontact us for a quote.
